Monday, January 7, 2008

Nairobi traffic conversation


"So who did you vote for?" I asked Patrick, who picked me up at the airport. He had just been telling me how things had cooled down here in Nairobi now. Schools haven't opened yet but businesses have at least, and it's safe to drive through town. Last week was - noisy is the understating adjective so many people are leaving it at. It's kind of a misleading term, so I'm guessing it's chosen for that polite small-talk neutrality that enables people to talk about it without plunging the conversation into the controversy that left 500+ dead in only a couple of days. So perhaps it's bad form for me to be asking like this?

But Patrick just smiles wryly : "The one who won, of course."
I try to match his smile : " So who won?"
We're passing Uhuru Park, where Raila Odinga had planned his Million-Man Rally on Thursday as part of his challenge to Kibaki's claim that he'd won. As it turned out nobody made it through the Special Forces' teargas and harsher weapons. It's still a no-go area guarded by uniformed men with guns who look back at me sternly.

"Our President. Kibaki." (He doesn't have to add 'of course'. His tone says it. But is smile knows the humour in it.) I probe a little and he explains that Kibaki got economic growth up by 7% whilst he was in office. So he knows how to run a country.

An incredible sight comes towards us. A HUGE car. Quadruple-size. Flying. No, hovering. Like the angel of cars presiding over all the matatus and worn-down peugeots struggling through the Nairobi traffic, like a car deity come down to us from heaven.

It's a Hummer billboard. A huge, hovering Hummer. Like Odinga's infamous Hummer, that's come to epitomise his ostentatious displays of wealth.

"Who is richer, Odinga or Kibaki?"
"Of course Kibaki is richer! How can he not be rich? He has been in government for so long! He must be rich."
"So he became rich from working in government?"
"Of course! How can he not be rich?"

We pass by the Heavenly Hummer and there are a few tattered-looking old men gathered underneath the billboard. It seems to me that being in government is supposed to get you rich, and this is a good thing. But then we got to talking about other things.

I'm glad to finally be on my way back to work. And also it's nice to see that the 'noise' seems to have died down. It's kind of frightening how power-seekers can incite young men in poor areas to violence - only briefly in Kenya thank God, but so devastatingly elsewhere. Yesterday my sister read me some Langston Hughes (a poet she likes) and I was struck by the generality of the phenomenon:

Let us kill off youth
For the sake of truth.
We who are old know what truth is --
Truth is a bundle of vicious lies
Tied together and sterilized --
A war-makers' bait for unwise youth
To kill off each other
For the sake of
Truth.

Friday, January 4, 2008

Democracy & Kenya

An excerpt I liked from

Democracy on trial: Kenya elections by Mukoma Wa Ngugi

Full article at http://blogs.independent.co.uk/openhouse/2008/01/kenyas-nightmar.html

Toward a solution, Kenyans should realize that something beautiful didhappen during this election. Most of the big men of Kenyan politics werevoted out of Parliament and hence out of office. Even the sons of formerdictator Moi did not win seats in Parliament. There seemed to be a beliefthat voting was a way of talking back the Kenyan political elite, and thatdemocracy could be made to work for the majority poor. This is the flamethat we must not let die.

To nurture this flame, a recount of the votes in a transparent manner is necessary. This, no matter what one thinks of Raila or Kibaki, or whetherone thinks the elections were fair or not, should be the meeting ground of all those concerned about the future, immediate and long term, of Kenya.

If the votes can be recounted in full transparency, this election will notthen become the death of Kenyan democracy but rather a test along the wayto a democracy with real content – the content of security, equality andjustice for Kenya’s majority poor.

Services offered

Boxing Day is no day to read serious news so on reading the papers I stuck to the classifieds. Since then I've developed a taste for the classifieds in Zambian papers. They remind me of Alexander McCall-Smith's Botswana (of First Ladies' Detective Agency fame), totally unreal for sure but SO amiable. So, under The Post's Classifieds on December 26th, 2007, after the baby photos, Wedding dresses, Lost & Found, For Rent, For Sale, Wanted, and just before the Obituaries, is a the category 'Herbal Remedies'. Here's one of the half-dozen ads I found in this section:

Musango situated at Soweto Market opposite Mukupa Guesthouse – call: 0977 570395 . Email: mmusango yahoo.com.

To have more customers in your business, to recover stolen property, all venereal diseases to be cured in one week, grades 7, 9, 12 college and University of Zambia passing exams, warmth and dryness in women, best mutoto for men, solve marital problems, job seekers, bring your application we post it for you. Court cases, infertility, swellings and stomach, TB, diabetes, asthma, headache and backache, love potion between woman & man forever. Runaway husband / girlfriend/ wife/ fiancé if you want to win in sport, gambling, how to get rich using your spirits experience within a week. If you want to get married to man of your choice, Manhood enlargement, NB Love information the above address. SB08379-24-27

Thursday, January 3, 2008

#&%!!!! Kenyan NONelections


(venting some steam!)

The unrest in Kenya has extended my holidays, and so I should be grateful. Like I was at 16 during the Molo ethnic clashes, when my boarding school postponed the semester until further notice because the stables were burning. That u-turn on the way to the airport was every student's dream come true.

But now I'm just p#%&ed off. Not that I don't find both candidates creepy. But somehow I just think people should get to choose their own leaders. Ordinary Kenyans have gone to the polls to say who they trust to make decisions about their country, and with all this noise nobody can hear what they said or even seems to care. BBC World Service, the best of the mediocrity that passes for international news, talks of Mwal Kibaki and Moi Kibaki, Kah-bera slums, calls the party who won the parliamentary majority for 'the opposition', and mixes Luo with Kalenjin with Kikuyu as they tell the world what is happening. Election observers can't quite sink to the level of denying the blatant rigging on both sides by rubber-stamping it 'free & fair', but what the heck, who do they think they're fooling? The international community doesn't give a shit about democracy in Africa. Given the choice between stability and people getting to choose their own government... My bet is everyone will stand way back until either Kibaki's forces have either teargassed, shot or beaten people off the streets (ie delivered stability) or until some deal has been brokered between the 2 factions. And that, not the preferences of the ordinary people whose country it actually is, will decide who gets to pillage the coffers next.

Hurrah democracy. Bravo the Free World. And all the other Cold War slogans.